Studebaker Steering Bellcrank: Center Pin Rebuilding  
Note: This is for pre-'63 type center pins, using needle bearings and not bushings

Parts Needed:

• (2) Torrington #B-1612 Needle Bearings

• (1) Torrington #B-1612-OH  (Oil Hole) Bearing

• (1) Cork Seal or Rubber o-ring of correct size- (use bearing/housing to measure)

 
These are the parts needed to rebuild the steering bellcrank - provided your center pin shaft is in good condition.

1. Remove the center pin assembly from the car.  This can be done by removing the steering bellcrank pinch-bolt (completely), and (4) Center-Pin mounting bolts, remove the "hidden" grease fitting from the rear of the crossmember.. It may take some prying to slide the center pin assembly out of the bellcrank. Remove the assembly out through the crossmember.

2.  Once removed from the car, you can disassemble the center pin assembly. DO NOT place the center pin shaft in a vice WITHOUT using a bolt to keep it from spinning as you remove the large retaining nut- you may damage the machined shaft, making it difficult to reinstall. Remove the cotter pin, and use a large socket and breaker bar to remove the retaining nut. It can be quite tight.

3.  Shown below are some "typical" used center pins. (L-R) a "useable" pin with average wear, an unuseable pin with rust damage and severe bearing wear, and a well-maintained (greased) or recently replaced pin.

4.   After cleaning up the pin and housing, It will be necessary to knock out the old bearings.  This can best be done using the vice, and a large flat screwdriver or punch.  Try not to damage ONE of the bearings, so that you may use it to create a bearing installation tool.  After removal, take one of the used bearings and remove the needles.  Then cut a "slot" in the bearing using a cut-off wheel or something similar.  This "slot" aids in removing the tool from the center pin bore after pressing in the new bearings.

Bearing Tool:

5.  This is where I "modify" the assembly procedure.  I rebuild my pins using (3) bearings instead of Studebaker's (2).  I feel that this helps to relieve pressure on each bearing, spreading it over the (3) bearings.  The "middle" portion of a used shaft, generally has no wear, so a "borderline" pin may be salvaged using (3) bearings.  The first bearing to press in is the (center) 1612-OH bearing (oil-hole).  The oil-hole in this bearing MUST be aligned with the grease fitting in the housing so that grease may pass through it to the other bearings. If not installed properly, you will NOT be able to grease the pin.

Pressing in the oil-hole bearing:  Use the press-tool to recess the bearing deep enough to align the hole with the grease fitting.

6.  Install the upper and lower bearings.  RECESS the lower bearing the THICKNESS of the o-ring or cork seal below the machined surface. This allows the installation of the 0-ring, or cork seal.  If you don't recess the bearing to provide room for the seal, the seal will be damaged whenever the car is driven.  

Recessed bearings: O-ring installed